Protein Treatments and Why We Need Them

Have you ever noticed your hair does better when you mix up what products you use instead of using the exact same thing every day?

Well there is a reason for that!

It’s all about the balance between protein and moisture. You may be conditioning and conditioning but your hair needs protein so it can’t hang onto it so your hair stays dry. Or too many of your products might have protein and now your hair is brittle. Also different size protein molecules give you different results. (Who knew?!)

So maybe you were using shampoo “A” every single day…. Then one day you use shampoo “B” and have an amazing hair day… It’s likely due to the ingredients that you didn’t know your hair was craving!

Why is protein so great?

Not only do they STRENGTHEN your hair, but they also help your hair hold onto moisture and KEEP IT….which leads to HYDRATED, healthy hair. #goals. So they work as an excellent deep conditioner!

It repairs damage! The hair cuticle is like fish scales that are meant to lay flat and protect the inner protein cortex. Damaged, bleached, heat-styled hair is very porous (my hair for sure!)…. meaning there are gaps and holes in the fish scales and they may be raised up and frayed…instead of laying flat (like on a fish)….. which creates FRIZZ.

With a hole-y outer fish scale layer, how does the hair strand hold onto moisture? IT DOESN’T! It just leaks out. So now your stuck with this hair that has holes in it (weaker hair), that has raised cuticles (frizz), and is dehydrated because it has no way of sealing in moisture.

Protein treatments fill in these holes and gaps (like spackle) which provides STRENGTH. It smoothes the cuticle so it lays flat which createsSHINE. And now the hair is capable of holding onto moisture and is therefore hydrated….which creates SOFTNESS. 

Protein also helps your hair RETAIN COLOR! It’s all about repairing that outer barrier layer which helps it hold onto everything….instead of leaking back out. 

With all of this extra support from the protein, your hair now has VOLUME! It CURLS better. And holds onto STYLE!

How to know if your hair needs a protein treatment?

• Limp, lifeless, flat, stringy, and worthless no matter what you do.
• No matter how much conditioning you do, it just doesn’t feel soft.
• Despite conditioning, it is brittle and keeps breaking.
• It may feel TOO soft and not have any texture to it.
• You tease it, you use your wand, you spray it, and it just won’t hold style or curl.
• Feels mushy/thin when wet (as opposed to individual fibers).
• It’s just dull and needs some shine.
• You swim in chlorine pools. Or have “hard water” in your home (like well water).

How to fix it?

• CLARIFY. Use a clarifying shampoo so you get rid of all the gunk/buildup and expose all those holes/gaps that need repairing. 

Here’s the link to the clarifying shampoo I use:

• TOWEL DRY. Soaking wet hair will dilute your treatment.

• FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS. Apply the treatment and leave it on for the recommended time (not longer).

• HEAT. Put on a plastic cap and add some heat with your hair dryer (or a microwavable hair cap if you have one) to maximize it’s benefits. The heat lifts the fish scales and the protein can get where it needs be and binds more easily. (If you don’t have time, just use it in the shower. It still works.)

I have this big pack of plastic caps so there are plenty for my 3 year old to participate. 🙂 Protein/deep conditioning treatments are mommy/daughter girl time. 🙂 The microwavable hat is great too because you can get a full 30min of heat without standing there with your dryer.

• REMOVE. Thoroughly rinse it off when you’re finished. And follow it up with a good, deep conditioner. 

This Shea Moisture Intense Hydration one is my absolute favorite deep conditioner right now. It is amazing and inexpensive. Can be used as a mask or daily but is SUPER hydrating. The Almond Milk one is my second favorite one. It is super hydrating however it contains a little protein just fyi.

Soooo…..what am I supposed to buy?

Anything that says “repairing,” “reconstructing,” “strengthening“, etc most likely has protein in it (this can be an actual treatment or just your shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, serum, gel, anything).

Check the ingredients! Protein products usually contain the words collagen, wheat, oat, milk, rice, soy, silk, keratin, quinoa, seed extract, blue green algae, the word “hydrolyzed” (which means it is broken down into smaller pieces), amino acids, or peptides.

Stronger treatments have proteins listed near or at the beginning of the ingredient list.

Just don’t go overboard and get all protein-containing products. Too much is not always good!

Treatments that I consistently use:

Shea Moisture Strengthen, Grow, and Restore Protein Masque. This is one I will always keep on my shelves. It was the first one I tried and it instantly made a huge difference in my hair. It consistently gives me good results and has continued to strengthen my hair. The peppermint is good for your scalp (healthy scalp=healthy hair). And best of all, it’s cheap.

Shea Moisture Hydrate and Repair Protein Treatment. Another great Shea Moisture product that really delivers. This really helps prevent breakage and makes your hair shinier and voluptuous! Great for porous hair.

Aphogee’s 2 Step Protein Treatment is super strong and can only be used every 6 weeks. This is great for damaged, bleached hair. You apply it and leave it on until your hair turns super hard, then rinse it off. THIS GIVES YOU TONS OF VOLUME! Use the step 2 moisturizer and VOILA!

Aphogee also has a 2 Minute Keratin Protein Treatment that can be used weekly. Lighter treatments such as these are great for moisture…..so they are perfect for dry hair. (THIS ONE MAKES YOUR HAIR SOFTER.)

Redken CAT extreme spray is a protein treatment you can use weekly. Leave it on 3-5 minutes after shampooing. Redken protein treatment days are my BEST hair days! Shine, volume, style….its great stuff. But this one is strong so follow up with a good conditioner.

Aphogee Keratin Reconstructor spray is a leave in spray that I use almost daily. It gives me some added texture and body in my hair with an extra boost of protein.

The Mane Choice Anti-breakage and Repair Antidote Mask. I actually used this for the first time today and wow……I seriously had the best hair day. It felt softer, however had SO. MUCH. VOLUME. I didn’t even have to tease it…..me, Ashlee, the teasing queen….. So I’m now a fan of this. (All of their products have impressed me so far.)

So today I used clarifying shampoo, then put this antidote mask on (roots and all but heavier at the ends), left it on long enough to shower/shave, then conditioned with my all-time fav Shea Moisture Intensive Hydration Masque. I also sprayed some Aphogee keratin spray (for texture) along with all of my other products (leave-in conditioner, sea-salt spray, root booster, mousse, smoothie balm, and serum…..yes I use all that every day)…….and BEST. HAIRDAY. EVER.

Is there a DIY protein treatment?

Yes! A popular (and effective) protein treatment can be made by adding 2 teaspoons of Bragg’s liquid amino acids with conditioner. Can leave on (with heat) up to 30min. Can be used weekly.

However just putting eggs or avocado on your hair is a waste of time. The protein molecules are way too big to actually do anything beneficial.

Why is too much protein a bad thing?

Too much protein…..either from too frequent use, leaving on too long, or not rinsing it off well…. can lead to brittle hair that breaks easily. Kind of the opposite of what we’re going for here!

Damaged, bleached, heat-styled porous hair (mine!!) LOVES protein! So many holes and so much frizz to correct….it just goes to town on my hair.

(I use protein treatments almost every time I shampoo….which isn’t every day, but still several times a week. But my hair is most definitely porous and can handle it.) I just love the volume it gives me!

However virgin, healthier hair, or thick/coarse hair strands, are susceptible to protein overload. 

So you healthy hair gals need to be more conservative with it.

ALL HAIR NEEDS PROTEIN TREATMENTS. However if you are prone to protein overload, stick with the lighter ones that can be used weekly or don’t have protein listed in the first few ingredients.

How do I know if I over-did it with protein?

• Brittle, stiff, sticky hair that tangles easily.
• Rough, dry hair.
• Won’t cooperate. 

However…..coconut and plant extracts can make certain people’s hair feel hard so don’t confuse this with protein overload. (I hate the way coconut makes my hair feel!)

Well, crap… What should I do now?

If you went overboard with the protein, just clarify and use a deep conditioner (without protein).

Happy hair is all about the balance between protein and moisture. Or structure/stiffness vs. softness. If your having bad hair days, figure out what your hair is needing and FIX IT!

So now that you know what to look for, get to know what your hair likes. See what all ingredients are in the products you’re using. Have fun with it. And enjoy some good hair days!